Quick print studio4/18/2023 ![]() I use Soraa BR30 300O bulbs, which have very high CRI and R9 values. That's why I splurged on very good bulbs for the room where I do photography. I have a lot of bulbs in my house that get a slight greenish tint when dimmed a lot, which is very unpleasant. Some cheap LEDs have a pronounced color change when they are dimmed, and not just a change in temperature. I will do a search to gain better background information. That is certainly the case with the halogens we have. I had wondered whether a dimmer switch might help but dimmers usually change the colour of the light. Calibration for the two sets of conditions might help (I can borrow a Colormonki again), but the artificial lighting being so very bright is the major item for me to address. This set up is clearly something else I should be tackling. I have a south facing window with a plain off-white vertical blind to one side that I close for editing and a ceiling light (5000k daylight and far too bright) just over my other shoulder for when it gets dark. Unfortunately, my desk is not situated in good lighting conditions. 24 inch screens are what I have in mind to avoid utilising too much deskspace. I have been monitoring screen prices, too, particularly Eizo and Benq. So I use LR for keywords, global adjustments and printing, but Photoshop for almost everything else. I do actually use and prefer Lightroom for printing and I find its Print module is generally straight forward. ![]() Using Canon paper also has the bonus of having the profiles already in the printer driver. ![]() Yes I am definitely a novice (not only at printing!) so I shall continue to use Canon paper for the time being, moving up to try their higher quality once I have got to know the printer better. I will give Print Studio Pro a miss as your practical experience has reinforced my intuition. Thank you for the replies everyone, with such valuable information. If the spec sheet for the computer screen does not say 100% sRGB compliant or close to 100% Adobe RGB compliant, you can safely assume it is not. Good luck, and post questions if you get stuck.I agree Dan and the only caveat I would add is that the computer screen must be either sRGB or Adobe RGB compliant as calibration and profiling will not make a non-compliant screen into one that can reproduce the full colour space. People differ in terms of where in the range Len posted they like to work. I don't recall whether the default luminance was correct, and I can't check because my current monitor uses proprietary NEC software, and using that I set the luminance manually. If you use an X-Rite device to calibrate your monitor-I assume this is the same for datacolor devices, but I have never used one-the default calibration will take care of all color settings. Some were very close to accurate right out of the box, but others were not even close. I would strengthen what Len said if you don't calibrate your monitor, it's just a roll of the dice whether your prints look like your screen. In addition to the editing that he mentions, there are printing-specific things you have to become comfortable with, like softproofing and using ICCs for the combinations of paper and printer you use. That aside, I agree with Manfred: avoid extra software and concentrate on the basics. But regardless of that, in the short run, you can get very good prints out of Lightroom with a good bit less work. I'm not arguing that long run, you should do what I am doing, and I am pretty sure that Manfred would say that you shouldn't. Photoshop gives you greater control over resizing and output sharpening, but when I did a test recently, I found no appreciable difference in uprezzing quality, and I have found the output sharpening in LR to be quite good. I've decided not to change, for the most part. It's quite a bit easier, and most of what you learn with Lightroom is fairly easily transferred to Photoshop if you decide to change later. If you are a novice at printing, I recommend that you start with Lightroom, not Photoshop. From a quick look, it does some things that the Adobe software doesn't do, but none of the things I found were things I would do. He clearly knows his stuff, so I looked for descriptions on the Canon website. He prints with a Canon printer (a larger, higher-end Prograf), and he mentioned that he uses a higher-end Canon product, Professional Print and Layout, as a plugin in Photoshop. I recently posted a video by Mitch Boyer, a professional printer, about setting black point compensation. In all this time, the number of times I have used Print Studio Pro is zero. I current print with a Prograf 1000, but I have printed with at least 3 other Canon printers. Unlike Manfred, I print with Canon printers. I am not as experienced a printer as Manfred is, but I have printed a lot over quite a number of years and exhibit my prints.
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